Archive for the ‘Reviews’ Category

02
Jan

While it’s our passion (and job) to check out new restaurants when we’re in New York, we also like to eat at some places again and again. Here are three perennial favorites:

A Voce elevates rustic Italian fare to an art form. A perfect example is the chicken al mattone creatively re-imagined with fennel and chili.

AVoce_menu

The signature Gruyere popovers at BLT Steak are reason enough to visit this elegant steakhouse. And then there’s the lobster salad, braised short ribs and, of course, the steak.

BLT_popover

World's Best Popovers

‘Cesca is both a neighborhood restaurant and dining destination. Serving soulful Southern Italian fare, the establishment is filled with the hum of happy patrons.

cesca

What are your favorite New York restaurants?

06
Mar

Love, love, love the Lounge at Coi. Adjacent to the main dining room, where Chef Daniel Patterson’s intricate 11-course tasting menu unfolds, the Lounge serves up the exhilarating epicurean experience that is Coi, but with less formality and more flexibility.

Photo Credit: David Wakely

Photo Credit: David Wakely

Here, one can enjoy casual fare (the Lounge menu offers a heartier take on Coi’s modern California cuisine), opt for the full tasting menu or, in what seems to us pretty much like nirvana, mix and match the two.

We began with the Grilled Gruyere Sandwich (from the Lounge menu, natch). This wasn’t a precious interpretation of the classic dish, but a substantial, albeit superior, version, and ample enough to share.

coi_grilled3

The rest of our courses were evenly divided between the two menus. Also from the Lounge: a crisp and zippy Little Gems salad with parmesan and croutons, and a heavenly bowl of Udon noodles with a fragrant broth, mushroom dashi, and vegetables.

Coi_udon

And from the Tasting Menu: the rich and delicious wild mushroom porridge with crisp root vegetable chips, and a colorful dish called “Pasture,” beets roasted in hay, fresh cheese, wild sprouts, and flowers.

Complementing our meal were several wines by the glass, including a Lioco Chardonnay and Copain Pinot.

Coi (pronounced “kwa”) is an archaic French word meaning tranquil, and perfectly captures the restaurant’s Zen-like aura. Awash in colors of sand and stone, with grass-cloth walls, organic fabrics, and handmade tables created from a single storm-felled black walnut tree (as per Coi’s website), the space absolutely oozes tranquility, an amazing feat considering its location on Broadway, within a pebble’s throw of North Beach’s many “gentlemen’s clubs.”

The food was incredible, the service meticulous, the atmosphere relaxing, and the experience fabulous (dare we say perfect?).

In addition to Patterson’s passion for ingredient-driven, imaginative cuisine, he’s passionate about his community—whether it’s the one he’s created through his restaurants, embracing local farmers, fisherman and foragers, Larkinlogoor the one he’s adopted through his partnership with Larkin Street Youth Services (our friend Mary is on their Board and joined us at Coi). Read more about the innovative Larkin Street partnership here.

Patterson’s other San Francisco Bay Area restaurants are Il Cane Rosso (how can you not love a place called “The Red Dog”?…not that we’re biased or anything) in San Francisco’s Ferry Building and the recently opened Plum in Oakland.

The Lounge at Coi serves dinner 6 – 10 p.m., Tuesday – Saturday. 373 Broadway, San Francisco, 415.313.9000 or coirestaurant.com

21
Jan

Our recent excursion to Napa concluded with a wonderful dinner at Tyler Florence’s just opened and already bustling Rotisserie & Wine restaurant. Located in Napa’s new Riverfront development (along with Fish Story and Morimoto), R+W is loosely based on the Southern concept of “meat and three” (a menu option consisting of one meat dish and three sides).

R+WThe peripatetic Florence (who also recently launched the blockbuster Wayfare Tavern in San Francisco and hopes to soon open El Paseo in Marin) was onsite along with newly appointed business partner Jeremy Fox (formerly of the vegetarian palace Ubuntu; an interesting pairing, no?). While the kitchen and dining room were afire, Florence took some time to chat with us and was quite gracious.

The clubby dining room, which features dark wood and rustic-style chandeliers, is compact, and likely seems more so given the restaurant’s “hungry-man” sized portions. Much of the menu, particularly the rotisserie dishes, is served family style and is meant to be shared.

Our meal got off to an auspicious start with the delectable, mouth-wateringly delicious corn sticks and honey butter. Worth every calorie and then some… Other highlights of the Southern-influenced menu included buttermilk biscuits & gravy, a Creole style squid and pork belly stew, duck confit with crackling waffles, and the collards and grits “fixins”.   Hearty but probably not heart healthy!

The wine list nicely complements the meat-centric fare, with an excellent selection (and one that features many affordable bottles) of local Cabs and Syrahs.

During the Winter months, we think the marble bar offers some of the best seats in the house, with an up-close view of the namesake rotisserie. But once the weather warms up, the prime seats will likely be on the patio, where chairs made from reclaimed oak wine barrels overlook the Napa River.

720 Main Street, Napa; 707.254.8500. Open nightly from 5pm to 11pm.