Má Pêche (which means “mother peach”) is part of David Chang’s expanding Momofuku empire and the chef’s only restaurant in midtown.

The French-Vietnamese menu features a noteworthy raw bar; small plates including the effervescent beef tartare flavored with soy and scallions; spicy and soothing curries; and the ubiquitous bahn mi sandwich. A few of our favorite dishes are the ultra-fresh shrimp and pork summer rolls, the steamed pork buns and the chicken bahn mi, with romaine, mint and spicy mayo tucked in a delicate but toothsome bun.

The restaurant’s wine list includes varietals unfamiliar to many but well suited to the restaurant’s fare (kind of like the Slanted Door). One particular area of focus is Jura, a very small wine-growing region in eastern France. The whites, from Chardonnay and Savagnin grapes, have good acidity and minerality and are just a bit quirky! The red are bright and earthy but without too much forward fruit and marry well with spicy cuisine.

Located in the boutique Chambers Hotel , Má Pêche serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. We find it perfectly suited for a mid-day respite, after-work drinks and pre-theater meals. Or you can indulge in the seven-course Vietnamese celebratory feast, which can be reserved for parties of 4-8.

Má Pêche also includes a midtown outpost of the group’s bakery, Momofuku Milk Bar.