Translated from latin, Per Se literally means in and of itself, and rumor has it that when asked if the New York restaurant would mirror his Napa Valley flagship, The French Laundry, Thomas Keller replied, “It won’t be the same, per se.” Elements of the décor and menu and, of course, Keller’s penchant for perfectionism, do evoke the Laundry but suited to an urban stage. The dining room holds just 15 tables, the decor is hushed, and the patrons whisper in reverential tones, but somehow our experience never crossed over to pretentious. Perhaps because the kitchen turns out whimsical dishes, such as the classic “salmon ice-cream cone”, along with serious french-influenced New American cuisine. Time your visit to coincide with the late fall truffle season and indulge in a special menu that features slivers of this prized delicacy generously shaved on every dish. The wine list is encyclopedic; one gem we discovered was Brewer Clifton, a boutique California pinot noir (and perfect foil for the earthy truffle).