Step across the threshold into the vast space known as Spice Market and you’ll swear that you’ve entered the private labyrinth of Siamese royalty in the heart of NYC’s once grungy meatpacking district. The ubiquitous Jean-Georges Vongerichten (think Jojo, Mercer Kitchen, Vong, 66, et al) pulls off the ultimate culinary dichotomy: low brow fare typically found in a Bangkok backstreet stall or in a pushcart in Hanoi served in high-style. For a great people-watching experience, grab a bar seat, a specialty cocktail, several small plates, and watch the “scene” unfold. Appetizers are always a highlight, especially the spiced chicken samosas with cilantro yogurt. Have a sweet tooth? Then Ovaltine kulfi is your cure; it tastes like doubly dense ice cream with decadent caramelized banana and chocolate sauce.