Late last year, Michael and Lindsay Tusk of the tony and much-celebrated Quince restaurant, opened its more casual offspring in the space right next door. Cotogna (Italian for “quince”) reflects the Tusks’ vision of refined Cal-Ital cuisine but does so in a simpler and, perhaps, more soulful way.

Taking full advantage of the restaurant’s impressive wood-fired oven, rotisserie, and grill, the menu features polished country fare: hearty antipasti, grilled and roasted fish and meat (the spit-roasted pork with fennel and hot pepper has already become a signature dish), the ubiquitous pizza pie, and a more rustic take on the elegant pastas Michael Tusk made famous at Quince. Two to die for: the pappardelle with braised rabbit and the farm egg ravioli with brown butter.

As someone who’s never eaten a vegetable I didn’t like (yes, that includes lima beans), I could have made an entire meal of the “Giardino.” After much angst, I narrowed my selection to the carrots roasted with honey from Cotogna’s rooftop hives and rapini with garlic and pepperoncini.

However, our favorite bite of the night was undoubtedly the house-made ricotta with wild mushroom crostini: creamy, savory, earthy, and dusted with crunchy flecks of salt. In fact, this may be our favorite dish of the year; yes, it’s only March, but I’m confident this declaration will hold true throughout 2011!

David Lynch’s unique approach to the all-Italian wine list—all glasses are $10 and all bottles $40—takes the pressure off pricing and puts the focus on pairing, and we think it’s a fun and smart way to encourage exploration. One of our discoveries: the 2009 Villa Sparina Gavi di Gavi from Piemonte.

Cotogna’s interior is of-the-moment San Francisco: urban industrial meets farmhouse chic. The pretty open room is framed in exposed brick and floor-to-ceiling windows; tables and chairs are made from elm and walnut; and the copper-topped bar and bank of flames from the open kitchen cast a warm and luminous glow. The space also features the ever-prevalent communal table and counter seating with a bird’s eye view of the kitchen at work.

Quince, while very welcoming, still has the aura of a special occasion restaurant. Cotogna, on the other hand, feels like home.

Lunch and dinner daily, Saturday brunch, closed Sunday.