Opened by veterans of Taverna Santi (a much-lauded restaurant and formerly located just a few doors away), Diavola is Italian for female devil, and the food is devilishly good.
The stove, or, in this case, the wood-fired oven, is manned by Dino Bugica, who cooks in the style of “cucina povera”, creating simple, rustic dishes based on local ingredients (really, a precursor to today’s sustainable food philosophy).
Count on a pizza master to master breadsticks. One would sell their soul for these delicious treats, but fortunately there’s no need. The slender sticks, dusted with flecks of salt and herbs, are on the house. But, show some restraint and save room for the main attractions—and there are many.
Starters shine. A current favorite is the grilled asparagus salad with fried egg, pancetta, arugula, and truffled pecorino. Seriously. And the house-cured salumi and cheese tray is a signature dish.
Of course pizzas are a must, and new combinations are rotated in on a seasonal basis. Two of the most flavorful—and longstanding options—are the Cha Cha Cha with smoked pork belly and goat cheese, and the Inferno, a mouth-tingling pie draped in hot peppers, tomato, basil, and mozzarella. A new contender is the Conquistador, topped with spicy chorizo and goat cheese. All pizzas are available with the addition of house sausage, salumi or prosciutto, anchovies, arugula, or a farm egg.
Another dish worthy of rave reviews is the rigatoni pork cheek ragù. Those in the know (ok, we) say it rivals Santi’s spaghettini al sugo.
The wine list focuses on local and Italian alternatives, including two house selections: the Hawkes Nero di Campo and Bianco di Campo, food- and wallet-friendly wines offered by the half liter and jug. On a side note, be sure to visit Hawkes’ nearby tasting room, located along picturesque Highway 128.
Opened in 2008, Diavola is getting better and better. Evolving in tandem with the town of Geyserville, the restaurant remains fiercely loyal to the region’s historical roots while incorporating some fitting modern touches.