How many of us while growing up were lucky enough to have Nanas whose soul-satisfying culinary skills caused us to exclaim, “One day I’m going to have my own restaurant and name it after you Grandma!”? Fast forward to today at 17th and Pond in the Castro and you’ll find a chef who has done just exactly that. It helps that this particular chef is Melissa Perello, a three-time rising chef Beard award nominee, whose lineage includes successful stints at SF icons Charles of Nob Hill and Fifth Floor.

From the very moment one’s phone reservation call is answered until the final, final “Good night and thanks for coming in,” the Frances experience will warm every one of your senses. The NYC- reminiscent, shotgun-style room is both efficient and intimate yet seating allows ample elbow and personal space. Our favorite table is all the way at the end of the long row and offers cozy corner banquette seating for two.

While one foursome of our foodie friends literally ordered the entire (yes, entire) menu one recent night, Renay and I took a slightly less hedonistic approach. Perfectly paired with one of the many appropriate wines by the glass, the daily menu kicks off with a unique and satisfying selection of bouchees including the now-famous Smoked Bacon Beignets, aioli-accompanied Crispy Chickpea Fritters (aka Panisse Frites), and, my favorite, Crisp Pork Trotters which are slow-cooked pig’s feet and ankles according to the “Food Lover’s Companion”.

The appetizer interlude is equally remarkable and, on this night, offerings included Ricotta Gnocchi “to die for” (my words, not theirs) and a seasonally correct Grilled Asparagus Salad, beautified by a walnut vinaigrette.

Thankfully, there was still room for dinner and dessert because the Sonoma Duck Breast and accompaniment of butter bean ragout, sautéed escarole, and crispy Cotechino sausage “is killer” as our friend John F. eloquently commented, while the melt-in-your-mouth Caramelized Atlantic Scallops are truly blissful.

Our dessert (um, what was our dessert...)

For dessert, we targeted the Chocolate Mousse in a burnt caramel sauce, each scoop topped by a thin cookie dusted with powdered sugar and crunchy salt…cold, crispy, and sweet sensations.

Needless to say, Frances is just perfect in every way…from the highly intelligent, user-friendly wine list built by sommelier Paul Einbund (formerly of Coi fame) to the impeccable and consistently friendly service. The Michelin Man would have to be absolutely blind not to award a special something to this San Francisco star!