Perbacco serves authentic Northern Italian cuisine, with an emphasis on the Piemonte region, in a sleek and stylish setting. The spacious venue features several seating areas and levels, and is populated by lively mix of businesspeople, oenophiles, restaurant industry folks, locals, and tourists.

Among the menu’s fresh, ingredient-driven offerings, must haves include the house-cured salumi; fritto misto of shrimp, green beans, and fennel with a lemon aioli; the halibut with creamed porcini and white corn; and the grilled lamb chops with Meyer lemon and mint.

Despite the restaurant’s quick tempo, the service is spot on, and waiters are extremely knowledgeable with regard to the menu and the extensive Italian-centric wine list.

Perbacco is an affirmative Italian exclamation, meaning something like “Oh my!” and is an apt expression for one’s experience at this exuberant restaurant.

Perbacco is so popular that Umberto Gibin, the gracious owner, opened a second restaurant right next door—the more casual and affordable Barbacco (220 California Street, www.barbaccosf.com,415.955.1919).