Posts Tagged ‘scenic drives’

22
Jan

What to do when December temps reach the high 60s and the sun shines relentlessly (not sure when we’ll be seeing that again)? Impromptu road trip, of course! We packed our bags and headed south to Santa Barbara, with brilliant stops in Carmel Valley, Big Sur, and Paso Robles.

Some highlights:

Carmel Valley Ranch. Recently acquired by Joie de Vivre, the property underwent a $35 million renovation and blends upscale comfort, modern accommodations, and outdoor adventure. Note: take advantage of the mid-week “Play Hooky” package.

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Lunch in Big Sur. Ventana means window and the Ventana Inn & Spa (also recently acquired by Joie de Vivre) offers a bird’s eye view of the rugged Big Sur coastline and the vast Pacific Ocean beyond. Lunch here countered the notion that a restaurant with smashing outlooks can’t serve scrumptious food. The fried Monterey Bay calamari with fennel and lemon aioli, fresh catch-of-the-day fish tacos, and Croque Madame complete with sunny side up egg were just outstanding.

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Paso Robles (The Pass of the Oaks). We headed inland via Route 46, a breathtaking pass that climbs up and over the Santa Lucia Mountains and descends into the charming town of Paso Robles (aka “pass-oh”).  It is also home to many of area’s renowned wineries, including Tablas Creek Vineyard, producers of Rhône varietals in the tradition of the famed Châteauneuf du Pape region and our first stop.

We continued to explore Paso from our home base at the Hotel Cheval, a 16-room boutique property adjacent to the historic town square. Among its many attributes, is its Pet Program (and wine bar)!

Two other exceptional venues:

  • McPrice Myers (yes, it’s the name of one individual) or “Mac” is the charming winemaker and polished palate behind the Syrah- and Grenache-based wines of the McPrice Myers label. While the tasting room is in an industrial park removed from Paso’s picturesque, oak-studded wine roads, it is well worth a visit. A favorite was the Beautiful Earth, a blend of 72% Syrah, 21% Grenache, and 7% Mourvedre.
  • "Mac"

    "Mac"

  • Mac is also the owner/winemaker at the Barrel 27 Wine Company, whose Mission Statement reads, in part, “Our goal is to make wine that works hard at helping hard working America relax for a minute…”
  • Fun Wine Names

    Wine names that grab you!

  • Thomas Hill Organics Market Bistro & Wine Bar – While the terms organic, seasonal, farm-to-table, and the like, may have morphed into clichés, Thomas Hill’s food is anything but. Sit on the sunny patio and enjoy a salad of roasted beets and cauliflower, with fresh burrata and a bagna cauda vinaigrette, the Vietnamese BBQ pork belly sandwich, with carrot sambal, cilantro, avocado, and roasted garlic aioli, and/or the Cypress Grove truffle tremor cheese, with chanterelles, arugula, and walnut pesto on fresh-baked bread. Local ingredients with an international flair!

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Santa Barbara via Los Olivos. We made a point of stopping by Alta Maria’s new Los Olivos tasting room enroute to Santa Barbara. This small production winery, focusing on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, was one of our favorite finds of 2011.

AltaMaria

Hand-hewn nails reflect the wine's hand-crafted style.

Diesel: The Face of Alta Maria!

Diesel runs the tasting room (with Stephanie's help, of course)!

In addition to Alta Maria, partners and vinters James Ontiveros and Paul Wilkins produce the Rhone-style Autonom (we served a magnum of this at our New Year’s dinner) and the luxurious Native 9 Pinot Noir.

We arrived in Santa Barbara just in time to enjoy a spectacular sunset.

Sunset @ Butterfly Beach

Sunset @ Butterfly Beach

While the light was beautiful, the true highlight of our visit was the opportunity to spend time with our dear friends Pat and Steph. And, they must have been just as happy to see us as they delved deep into their wine cellar and brought forth some incredibly special bottles to share (a 2001 Opus One, anyone?).

Opus 2

We returned to two of our long-time favorite places, the vibrant Cava Restaurant & Bar and the magical Stonehouse at San Ysidro Ranch.

JulienneHowever, our most enjoyable and delectable dining experience was at Julienne, an intimate neighborhood bistro with world-class fare. One of the most impressive offerings was the selection of house-made charcuterie with piquant accompaniments. We also indulged in the foie gras, persimmon, and arugula appetizer; stuffed quail with wild rice and chorizo; and the oven roasted pork belly with caramelized brussel sprouts, toasted mustard, and applesauce, among other treats (outrageous, huh?).

And complementing it all were two extraordinary bottles from the Devaney cellar: a 1997 La Grande Anneé  Bollinger and a 2001, the very first vintage, Sea Smoke Southing Pinot Noir.

Here’s to more impromptu adventures in 2012!

28
May

Located along Route 1, Valley Ford is a rural community set among the rolling hills of Western Sonoma County (a fun fact: In 1976, Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s installation art piece Running Fence passed through here). A primary reason to visit (at least for us) is Rocker Oysterfeller’s Kitchen + Saloon, located in the historic Valley Ford Hotel.

Rocker_signWe’ve been to Oysterfeller’s numerous times, approaching it from various points of origin, but for this particular expedition we chose the road less traveled (actually, never traveled)– Coleman Valley Road. Stretching from the town of Occidental to Bodega Bay and the California coast, it’s a 10-mile thoroughfare favored by cyclists for its awesome ascents, daring descents, and hairpin turns. Cresting at 1,100 feet, the Pacific Ocean lies before you with the mouth of the Russian River to the north and Bodega Head to the south.

Once at the coast, we took a slight detour north to the Kortum Trail, and hiked along the bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Backtracking, we then headed south and east, rolling into Valley Ford at precisely 11:30 a.m. Lunch is served!

Like the town itself, Oysterfeller’s has a slightly quirky, Bohemian vibe. Not surprising given its name. Rumor has it someone in the owners’ family (we’re sworn to secrecy, but here’s a hint: mum’s the word) was slightly tipsy one evening and when referencing the classic dish, Oysters Rockerfeller, slurred, we mean scrambled, a few syllables, and voila! the restaurant’s name was born.

Co-owners Brandon Guenther, the chef, and Shona Campbell, who hails from Galveston, Texas, have created a lively, welcoming spot—part Southern charm, part rock & roll.

A good feeling is evident from the moment you enter the animated bar, with photos of happy horses on the wall and spirited tunes on the 8-track. We love hanging here, but there’s also a pretty dining room, with white wainscoting and mustard-colored walls, and an expansive patio perfect for lazy summer afternoons or Sunday suppers.

The food has a Southern slant as well but with a definite Sonoma pedigree, featuring farm-fresh ingredients and produce from local purveyors.  Of course, one can’t go wrong with the oysters. Fresh and plump, they’re served raw on the half shell with a lemon-honey-jalapeno mignonette—adding just a hint of heat. Or, try the eponymously named preparation,  oysters baked and topped with arugula, bacon, cream cheese and a cornbread crust.

We also suggest y’all try the Dungeness crab and artichoke cakes, served with slightly spicy remoulade sauce; seared sea scallops with chorizo, grits, and okra; and the seafood gumbo with andouille sausage, crayfish, and the catch of the day. In fact, we like the gumbo so much that we’ve attempted to recreate it at home, courtesy of this recipe.

Ahhh. We may come for the fresh fish but we stay for the burger. A half-pound patty served with white cheddar and “Baconaisse” on a grilled Ciabatta bun. With a fried egg on top. And crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside Kennebec fries. And a spicy Bloody Mary to wash it all down.Rocker_burger

Speaking of drinks, there’s a creative cocktail menu as well as a focused wine list featuring many notable Sonoma County selections. On the lighter side, and particularly tasty with the oysters, are the Hanna Sauvignon Blanc and Unti Rosé. On the full-bodied end of the spectrum is one of our absolute favorites, the Radio-Coteau 2007 Los Colinas Syrah, Sonoma Coast, And, right in between is the County Line Pinot Noir, Eric Sussman’s second label, newly released this year (we’ve been fans of his County Line Rosé forever).

If you’ve had  too much fun—a definite possibility—or just want to extend your visit, the Valley Ford Hotel features six recently refreshed guestrooms. You can also take a little of the Oysterfeller magic with you. Guenther and Campbell just opened the Sonoma Coast Fish Bank right next door. Housed in what was an actual bank, the quaint shop offers fresh seafood, charcuterie, local cheeses and breads, and other picnic items.

03
Feb

We were very fortunate to spend Christmas 2009 at the wonderful Solage Resort in Napa Valley. Eco-conscious design, mountain views, award-winning spa, Michelin-starred restaurant, amazing staff, and pet friendly. What more could you ask for?Solage_2

In fact, the resort’s grounds and amenities are so welcoming that we only left the premises to take advantage of some nearby hiking, including the spectacular Table Rock Trail at Robert Louis Stevenson State Park.

And, best of all, a leisurely drive along Route 128, one of the most beautiful wine roads in the world, was all that was required to reach our destination. No full body scans, security lines, or compressed air. I think (hope) we’ve started a new holiday tradition!

While this was our first time staying at the resort, we’ve eaten at Solbar restaurant numerous times. Read our review.