Posts Tagged ‘travel’

22
Jan

What to do when December temps reach the high 60s and the sun shines relentlessly (not sure when we’ll be seeing that again)? Impromptu road trip, of course! We packed our bags and headed south to Santa Barbara, with brilliant stops in Carmel Valley, Big Sur, and Paso Robles.

Some highlights:

Carmel Valley Ranch. Recently acquired by Joie de Vivre, the property underwent a $35 million renovation and blends upscale comfort, modern accommodations, and outdoor adventure. Note: take advantage of the mid-week “Play Hooky” package.

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Lunch in Big Sur. Ventana means window and the Ventana Inn & Spa (also recently acquired by Joie de Vivre) offers a bird’s eye view of the rugged Big Sur coastline and the vast Pacific Ocean beyond. Lunch here countered the notion that a restaurant with smashing outlooks can’t serve scrumptious food. The fried Monterey Bay calamari with fennel and lemon aioli, fresh catch-of-the-day fish tacos, and Croque Madame complete with sunny side up egg were just outstanding.

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Paso Robles (The Pass of the Oaks). We headed inland via Route 46, a breathtaking pass that climbs up and over the Santa Lucia Mountains and descends into the charming town of Paso Robles (aka “pass-oh”).  It is also home to many of area’s renowned wineries, including Tablas Creek Vineyard, producers of Rhône varietals in the tradition of the famed Châteauneuf du Pape region and our first stop.

We continued to explore Paso from our home base at the Hotel Cheval, a 16-room boutique property adjacent to the historic town square. Among its many attributes, is its Pet Program (and wine bar)!

Two other exceptional venues:

  • McPrice Myers (yes, it’s the name of one individual) or “Mac” is the charming winemaker and polished palate behind the Syrah- and Grenache-based wines of the McPrice Myers label. While the tasting room is in an industrial park removed from Paso’s picturesque, oak-studded wine roads, it is well worth a visit. A favorite was the Beautiful Earth, a blend of 72% Syrah, 21% Grenache, and 7% Mourvedre.
  • "Mac"

    "Mac"

  • Mac is also the owner/winemaker at the Barrel 27 Wine Company, whose Mission Statement reads, in part, “Our goal is to make wine that works hard at helping hard working America relax for a minute…”
  • Fun Wine Names

    Wine names that grab you!

  • Thomas Hill Organics Market Bistro & Wine Bar – While the terms organic, seasonal, farm-to-table, and the like, may have morphed into clichés, Thomas Hill’s food is anything but. Sit on the sunny patio and enjoy a salad of roasted beets and cauliflower, with fresh burrata and a bagna cauda vinaigrette, the Vietnamese BBQ pork belly sandwich, with carrot sambal, cilantro, avocado, and roasted garlic aioli, and/or the Cypress Grove truffle tremor cheese, with chanterelles, arugula, and walnut pesto on fresh-baked bread. Local ingredients with an international flair!

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Santa Barbara via Los Olivos. We made a point of stopping by Alta Maria’s new Los Olivos tasting room enroute to Santa Barbara. This small production winery, focusing on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, was one of our favorite finds of 2011.

AltaMaria

Hand-hewn nails reflect the wine's hand-crafted style.

Diesel: The Face of Alta Maria!

Diesel runs the tasting room (with Stephanie's help, of course)!

In addition to Alta Maria, partners and vinters James Ontiveros and Paul Wilkins produce the Rhone-style Autonom (we served a magnum of this at our New Year’s dinner) and the luxurious Native 9 Pinot Noir.

We arrived in Santa Barbara just in time to enjoy a spectacular sunset.

Sunset @ Butterfly Beach

Sunset @ Butterfly Beach

While the light was beautiful, the true highlight of our visit was the opportunity to spend time with our dear friends Pat and Steph. And, they must have been just as happy to see us as they delved deep into their wine cellar and brought forth some incredibly special bottles to share (a 2001 Opus One, anyone?).

Opus 2

We returned to two of our long-time favorite places, the vibrant Cava Restaurant & Bar and the magical Stonehouse at San Ysidro Ranch.

JulienneHowever, our most enjoyable and delectable dining experience was at Julienne, an intimate neighborhood bistro with world-class fare. One of the most impressive offerings was the selection of house-made charcuterie with piquant accompaniments. We also indulged in the foie gras, persimmon, and arugula appetizer; stuffed quail with wild rice and chorizo; and the oven roasted pork belly with caramelized brussel sprouts, toasted mustard, and applesauce, among other treats (outrageous, huh?).

And complementing it all were two extraordinary bottles from the Devaney cellar: a 1997 La Grande Anneé  Bollinger and a 2001, the very first vintage, Sea Smoke Southing Pinot Noir.

Here’s to more impromptu adventures in 2012!

31
Dec

MaPecheLogoOne of our New Year’s resolutions is to wrap-up writing about our recent culinary tour of NYC—finally! Here’s our review of Má Pêche, a new discovery. Write-ups of a few of our perennial favorites—A Voce, Cesca and BLT Steak—will follow shortly.

Má Pêche (which means “mother peach”) is part of David Chang’s expanding Momofuku empire and the chef’s only restaurant in midtown.

The French-Vietnamese menu features a noteworthy raw bar; small plates including the effervescent beef tartare flavored with soy and scallions; spicy and soothing curries; and the ubiquitous bahn mi sandwich. A few of our favorite dishes are the ultra-fresh shrimp and pork summer rolls, the steamed pork buns and the chicken bahn mi, with romaine, mint and spicy mayo tucked in a delicate but toothsome bun.

MaPecheMenu

The restaurant’s wine list includes varietals unfamiliar to many but well suited to the restaurant’s fare (kind of like the Slanted Door). One particular area of focus is Jura, a very small wine-growing region in eastern France. The whites, from Chardonnay and Savagnin grapes, have good acidity and minerality and are just a bit quirky! The red are bright and earthy but without too much forward fruit and marry well with spicy cuisine.

Located in the boutique Chambers Hotel (where we stayed for the first time), Má Pêche serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. We find it perfectly suited for a mid-day respite, after-work drinks and pre-theater meals. Or you can indulge in the seven-course Vietnamese celebratory feast, which can be reserved for parties of 4-8.

Má Pêche also includes a midtown outpost of the group’s bakery, Momofuku Milk Bar.

More on David Chang, described by some as the founder of a “punk rock culinary movement,” can be found here.

15 W. 56th Street, between 5th and 6th avenues

Breakfast: 7 am – 11 am

Lunch: Mon – Sat / 11:30 am – 2:30 pm

Dinner: Mon – Sat / 5:30 pm – 11 pm; Sun / 5:30 pm – 10 pm

14
Nov

After absorbing the many sights and sounds of Madrid and Barcelona, two of the world’s great cities, we were ready for a few days of relaxation among the vineyards of Rioja. And, where better to lie low than in high style at the Frank Gehry-designed Marqués de Riscal hotel? Even though we’ve seen numerous images of the hotel—in all its flamboyant glory—our first glimpse of the undulating, titanium-clad structure was still quite startling.

MarquesdeRiscal

We've arrived!

We've arrived!

The juxtaposition of the old city of Elciego with the modern façade definitely required some contemplation, and surprise, surprise, we decided to contemplate it with a glass of wine! Elciego Fortunately, the property’s origin was as a winery (founded in 1860, it is the region’s oldest winery, and was restored in concert with the hotel project) so we were in luck!

In addition to the winery, the hotel features a gourmet restaurant, the more casual Bistro 1860, a tapas bar, and the Rooftop Lounge and Library. Our first night, we dined in the gourmet restaurant, presided over by Francis Paniego, a young and highly acclaimed Spanish toque. A highlight was the Memory Menu, a multiple-course tasting featuring some of the restaurant’s most memorable dishes.  Dinner was followed by custom-blended teas served in the library lounge.

Equally delightful was dining on the bistro’s terrace, with views of the village or the vineyards. A choice seat is amidst the patio’s fragrant herb garden.

While we spent much of our time in Rioja enjoying the hotel and its surrounds, we did break away one day to drink in some of the region’s renowned vineyards.

Our visit to R. Lopez de Heredia was enlightening and entertaining (thanks to our most charming guide). The winery followed the principles of sustainability long before it was fashionable (beginning a mere 133 years ago) and fiercely adheres to its time-honored traditions of winemaking.

Modern visitor's center designed by Zaha Hadid

Modern visitors center designed by Zaha Hadid

Miguel Merino, a small producer in the nearby town of Briones, was another favorite, in particular, the Unnum 2005, a tempranillo sourced from three different vineyards of Rioja Alta.

Two other regional highlights:

Bodegas Roda – full bodied elegant wines, particularly the Roda I

Marques de Murrieta – the Capellania is an excellent regional white.

For an in-depth view on the wines of Rioja, and more on the history of Lopez de Heredia, read this excellent article by Eric Asimov of the New York Times.