Bill Lampl deconstructs, in delicious detail, the Farmhouse Inn and Restaurant’s 10th Anniversary Dinner.
Shortly after our arrival at the Farmhouse, we joined the Fanellis in the salon for a champagne welcome reception. To our pleasant surprise, we were greeted by winemaker David Munksgard of one of Sonoma County’s finest wineries, Iron Horse . While enjoying a few savory treats, David poured three different Iron Horse sparkling wines from the 2006 vintage. The distinctive Blancs de Blancs featured 100% Chardonnay grapes, the spectacular Wedding Cuvee, (a Blanc de Noir made primarily from pinot grapes), and the versatile, food friendly Brut Rose. What a perfect way to whet the palate…
We then strolled to the dining room where we were seated, family style, at one of the elegantly set tables. Four glasses of wine were waiting at each of our places! As mentioned in an earlier post, the dinner theme was to pair two, 2001 wines (one new world, one old world) with each of the four courses.
Course-By-Course
The first course was seared day boat scallops from New England served with Marina de Chiogga squash, Dungeness crab brandade and a delicate Romesco sauce. The scallop was delicious, but after swirling 
the Daniel-Etienne Defaix 2001 “Les Lys” Chardonnay from Chablis and bringing the glass up for a whiff, I was blown away by the scent of sea air and how it perfectly complemented the dish. The other wine paired with this course was the 2001 “Mays Canyon” Russian River Valley Chardonnay from Littorai. I know, you are probably thinking “Isn’t 10 years old post peak for California Chardonnay?” All I can say is that it’s a good thing I was wearing shoes, because my socks would have blown off my feet otherwise! I immediately knew this was going to be a notable meal.
Seatbelt fastened, I was now ready for the second course. The perfectly roasted breast of Guinea hen and leg confit served with a tarragon and chardonnay jus was accompanied by wild mushroom hash and tasty sauteed endive. This course was appropriately paired with 2001 pinots; a Porter Creek “Hillside Vineyard” from down the road a mile or so, and a Bitouzet-Prieur “Pictures” from Volnay, France. The Volnay premier cru still displayed wonderful freshness and delicacy, yet its age started to show off just enough subtle meaty flavors to complement the fowl. The transcendent Russian River Valley pinot opened with a lofty bouquet of dark cherry and pepper followed by complex layers of balanced flavors…truly a delight!
With two down and two to go, it was quite clear we were in good hands. Seriously, if you love food and wine and have not experienced the ability of a Master Sommelier (in this case, the Farmhouse’s Geoff Kruth) to marry the two, you are missing one of life’s greatest pleasures.
The third course took us to a gastronomic place one only wishes one could visit more often. Perhaps the most tender 
and delicious Colorado rack of lamb I have ever tasted was served with swiss chard stuffed with Israeli couscous and ribbons of salsify and carrot. The 2001 “East Face” Dehlinger Syrah wasted no time delivering a plethora of flavors including olives, bacon, and pepper. As for the Bernard Levet “La Chavaroche” Syrah from Cote-Rotie, this is an elegant wine. It took a little time and a lot of focus, but when I arrived at the harmonious place when it hit me—the smoked meat flavors, the charred wood, the delicate fruit—I didn’t want to leave…ever!
Our fourth course, braised Niman Ranch short ribs accompanied by a delicious fresh horseradish gremolata, braised oxtail, and duchess potatoes, was a spot on match for the wine pairing. The Scherrer “Old and Mature Vines” Zinfandel, made from nearly 100 year old Alexander Valley vines, had a nice nose of mild spice and some earth. Soft and mature on the palate, there was still just enough fruit and acid to make this work very well with the ribs. The garnet-colored southern Italian Aghanico del Vulture “Riserva” Bascillium from Basilicata was a bit closed at first. With soft tannins still present, however, this wine opened up beautifully to reveal delicate flavors including dried fruits.
Although quite satiated, we didn’t want the night to end. Hoping for a tantalizing dessert, all we got was a plate of cookies. Albeit yummy ones, it was a shortfall given what had come before. But Mike ordered a bottle of Sauternes to accompany the cookies, and that certainly made it more remarkable! My only other criticism would be that there was not a salad course, but other than that, it was a flawless evening.
Kudos to the Farmhouse Inn kitchen and restaurant staff. Double kudos to Geoff Kruth who is truly a skilled master.
